Rust
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Mar 28, 2009 4:43 pm
- Location: Skelmanthorpe,huddersfield west yorkshire
Rust
Hi All,just been on one of my other sites,found this i hope this is of interest,i am going to try it over the weekend.Go to .[cookies carp corvette tips no1] please let me know what you think?
kev
kev
Re: Rust
Well i've just tried it on some rusty clips - and amazingly it does work. I left them submerged for about 2 hours in (Asda) vinegar and after a quick wipe around with a brush they came out as clean as a whistle. Forget Bilt Hammer and Jenolite this costs nothing and does the business. Oddly the rust stays attached till the bits are taken out and washed in water but it then just falls away. I'd recommend anyone to try this.
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Mar 28, 2009 4:43 pm
- Location: Skelmanthorpe,huddersfield west yorkshire
Re: Rust
Thanks for that furgus,i was going to try it over weekend.I have also seen rust removal using electrolosis but i think it is a lot of faffing about,glad to know vinigar works,trouble is havent found a big enough bath to put whole car in hehe kev
- Neil Evans
- Posts: 12179
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- Committee Role: Technical Officer
- Location: Boston, Lincolnshire
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Re: Rust
Molasses works well too apparently
Club Technical Information Officer
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
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- Posts: 64
- Joined: Sat Mar 28, 2009 4:43 pm
- Location: Skelmanthorpe,huddersfield west yorkshire
Re: Rust
Hi Neil,as far as i know you use mollasus diluted whith water in electrolosis,you can also use baking soda as well.You have to have a 12 volt supply,SSteel earth,with a copper possative,ive heard that it can be dangerous because of the fumes that it gives off during the prosses,at least with vinigar, as far as i know there is no danger just pongs a bit.kev
Re: Rust
Get hold of some phosphoric acid, the main ingredient in a lot of commercial rust eater/killers. Its fantastic stuff, just don't get any on your clothes and wear gloves. It is used for amongst other things cleaning floor tiles, can be bought in 5litre containers made by Debs for £20.
- Neil Evans
- Posts: 12179
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2008 1:06 am
- Committee Role: Technical Officer
- Location: Boston, Lincolnshire
- x 11
- x 25
Re: Rust
The molasses solution works without electrolosis. There are apparently issues with smell as the solution ferments but I understand that it is far more potent once this process is complete.
Some details here:-
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... t=molasses
Other useful threads on the alternative methods of rust removal here:-
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/search.p ... id=1412788
Consensus is not to use stainless steel as an electrode in the electrolisis method. It produces a chromium residue which is both harmful to the user and difficult to dispose of legally.
Check out the rest of the site also, there's lots of useful restoration techniques on there.
Some details here:-
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... t=molasses
Other useful threads on the alternative methods of rust removal here:-
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/search.p ... id=1412788
Consensus is not to use stainless steel as an electrode in the electrolisis method. It produces a chromium residue which is both harmful to the user and difficult to dispose of legally.
Check out the rest of the site also, there's lots of useful restoration techniques on there.
Club Technical Information Officer
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
Re: Rust
Phosphoric acid does not do quite the same job as acetic acid (vinegar). Vinegar allows the rust to be removed, but phosphoric acid converts the rust into an insoluble form, which isn't readily removable.tavistock wrote:Get hold of some phosphoric acid, the main ingredient in a lot of commercial rust eater/killers. Its fantastic stuff, just don't get any on your clothes and wear gloves. It is used for amongst other things cleaning floor tiles, can be bought in 5litre containers made by Debs for £20.
Richard Johnston, Plymtree Devon, formerly A30/A35 Club Technical Officer and President
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- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:03 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Re: Rust
Just raising this one again
Ive used Bilt Amber before and it works great it drys and has the appearance of a dark finish and could be painted
I bought some phosphoric acid to use on some rusty steel work not vehicle related but the next day it was not dry but appeared like a greasy coating? Should this be dry?
Thanks
John G
Ive used Bilt Amber before and it works great it drys and has the appearance of a dark finish and could be painted
I bought some phosphoric acid to use on some rusty steel work not vehicle related but the next day it was not dry but appeared like a greasy coating? Should this be dry?
Thanks
John G
John (Tight Yorkshireman)
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
- David Swain
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Re: Rust
I would have thought that you would need to wash the acid off John, then dry and paint, using a suitable undercoat.
David Swain. Member No. A1743
Contact for 'The Suffolk Group'.
Contact Email suffolk@austina30a35ownersclub.co.uk
A30 van 55 'R.G. Swain', A35 4 Door 59 'Little Gem', A35 2 Door 59 'The Rev' '+1'
Contact for 'The Suffolk Group'.
Contact Email suffolk@austina30a35ownersclub.co.uk
A30 van 55 'R.G. Swain', A35 4 Door 59 'Little Gem', A35 2 Door 59 'The Rev' '+1'
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Re: Rust
Thanks DavidDavid Swain wrote:I would have thought that you would need to wash the acid off John, then dry and paint, using a suitable undercoat.
I thought it was like the Bilt Amber "apply and go"!
John G
John (Tight Yorkshireman)
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
- David Swain
- Posts: 3707
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:08 pm
- Location: Suffolk
Re: Rust
No the Bilt and Hamber Hydrate 80 is non acidic, and as you know dries leaving a protective paintable surface. The acid once it has cleaned the surface would need to be removed/ neutralised, else it will keep attacking anything you put over it. Once cleaned I would use either Bilt and Hamber hydrate 80 as an undercoat, or a high Zinc undercoat primer.
David Swain. Member No. A1743
Contact for 'The Suffolk Group'.
Contact Email suffolk@austina30a35ownersclub.co.uk
A30 van 55 'R.G. Swain', A35 4 Door 59 'Little Gem', A35 2 Door 59 'The Rev' '+1'
Contact for 'The Suffolk Group'.
Contact Email suffolk@austina30a35ownersclub.co.uk
A30 van 55 'R.G. Swain', A35 4 Door 59 'Little Gem', A35 2 Door 59 'The Rev' '+1'
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- Posts: 4933
- Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:03 pm
- Location: Sheffield
Re: Rust
David Swain wrote:No the Bilt and Hamber Hydrate 80 is non acidic, and as you know dries leaving a protective paintable surface. The acid once it has cleaned the surface would need to be removed/ neutralised, else it will keep attacking anything you put over it. Once cleaned I would use either Bilt and Hamber hydrate 80 as an undercoat, or a high Zinc undercoat primer.
Oh!
Thanks David
John G
John (Tight Yorkshireman)
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
First referred to as the Tight Yorkshireman in editions of the Clubs Spotlight: Autumn 1996 Page 40 and Autumn 1997 Page 15
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- Location: High Wycombe, Bucks
Re: Rust
Just to be pedantic Hydrate 80 contains a weak organic acid.
I am a big fan of this stuff - and the Deox C rust removal solution.
I am a big fan of this stuff - and the Deox C rust removal solution.