Rust

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kevin 58
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Rust

Post by kevin 58 »

Hi All,just been on one of my other sites,found this i hope this is of interest,i am going to try it over the weekend.Go to .[cookies carp corvette tips no1] please let me know what you think?
kev
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fergus
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Re: Rust

Post by fergus »

Well i've just tried it on some rusty clips - and amazingly it does work. I left them submerged for about 2 hours in (Asda) vinegar and after a quick wipe around with a brush they came out as clean as a whistle. Forget Bilt Hammer and Jenolite this costs nothing and does the business. Oddly the rust stays attached till the bits are taken out and washed in water but it then just falls away. I'd recommend anyone to try this.
kevin 58
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Re: Rust

Post by kevin 58 »

Thanks for that furgus,i was going to try it over weekend.I have also seen rust removal using electrolosis but i think it is a lot of faffing about,glad to know vinigar works,trouble is havent found a big enough bath to put whole car in hehe kev
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Neil Evans
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Re: Rust

Post by Neil Evans »

Molasses works well too apparently
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kevin 58
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Re: Rust

Post by kevin 58 »

Hi Neil,as far as i know you use mollasus diluted whith water in electrolosis,you can also use baking soda as well.You have to have a 12 volt supply,SSteel earth,with a copper possative,ive heard that it can be dangerous because of the fumes that it gives off during the prosses,at least with vinigar, as far as i know there is no danger just pongs a bit.kev
Alan Lee
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Re: Rust

Post by Alan Lee »

Great Tip thanks. Will definitely use this.
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Paulc
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Re: Rust

Post by Paulc »

Get hold of some phosphoric acid, the main ingredient in a lot of commercial rust eater/killers. Its fantastic stuff, just don't get any on your clothes and wear gloves. It is used for amongst other things cleaning floor tiles, can be bought in 5litre containers made by Debs for £20.
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Neil Evans
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Re: Rust

Post by Neil Evans »

The molasses solution works without electrolosis. There are apparently issues with smell as the solution ferments but I understand that it is far more potent once this process is complete.

Some details here:-

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthre ... t=molasses

Other useful threads on the alternative methods of rust removal here:-

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/search.p ... id=1412788

Consensus is not to use stainless steel as an electrode in the electrolisis method. It produces a chromium residue which is both harmful to the user and difficult to dispose of legally.

Check out the rest of the site also, there's lots of useful restoration techniques on there.
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Re: Rust

Post by earthhist »

tavistock wrote:Get hold of some phosphoric acid, the main ingredient in a lot of commercial rust eater/killers. Its fantastic stuff, just don't get any on your clothes and wear gloves. It is used for amongst other things cleaning floor tiles, can be bought in 5litre containers made by Debs for £20.
Phosphoric acid does not do quite the same job as acetic acid (vinegar). Vinegar allows the rust to be removed, but phosphoric acid converts the rust into an insoluble form, which isn't readily removable.
Richard Johnston, Plymtree Devon, formerly A30/A35 Club Technical Officer and President
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Re: Rust

Post by Tight Yorkshireman »

Just raising this one again

Ive used Bilt Amber before and it works great it drys and has the appearance of a dark finish and could be painted

I bought some phosphoric acid to use on some rusty steel work not vehicle related but the next day it was not dry but appeared like a greasy coating? Should this be dry?

Thanks

John G
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David Swain
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Re: Rust

Post by David Swain »

I would have thought that you would need to wash the acid off John, then dry and paint, using a suitable undercoat. :thumbs:
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Re: Rust

Post by Tight Yorkshireman »

David Swain wrote:I would have thought that you would need to wash the acid off John, then dry and paint, using a suitable undercoat. :thumbs:
Thanks David

I thought it was like the Bilt Amber "apply and go"!

John G 8)
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David Swain
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Re: Rust

Post by David Swain »

No the Bilt and Hamber Hydrate 80 is non acidic, and as you know dries leaving a protective paintable surface. The acid once it has cleaned the surface would need to be removed/ neutralised, else it will keep attacking anything you put over it. Once cleaned I would use either Bilt and Hamber hydrate 80 as an undercoat, or a high Zinc undercoat primer. :thumbs:
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Re: Rust

Post by Tight Yorkshireman »

David Swain wrote:No the Bilt and Hamber Hydrate 80 is non acidic, and as you know dries leaving a protective paintable surface. The acid once it has cleaned the surface would need to be removed/ neutralised, else it will keep attacking anything you put over it. Once cleaned I would use either Bilt and Hamber hydrate 80 as an undercoat, or a high Zinc undercoat primer. :thumbs:

Oh! :shock:

Thanks David

John G 8)
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Dave Clark
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Re: Rust

Post by Dave Clark »

Just to be pedantic Hydrate 80 contains a weak organic acid.

I am a big fan of this stuff - and the Deox C rust removal solution.
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