UOL 524 1957 A35 Restoration
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration 60th Birthday
Seems our cars share the same birthday. I must have had ANK for 25+ years. 60 today.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Yes I gave up trying to fit the ring back on and just use a cable tie instead, so I have a spare ring if you want me to pop one in the post for you. Also when I rummaged in my box of brake bits I found an original Lockheed boot which is not perished, it's used and just needs a clean up.(remnants of Waxoyl ) I don't want it as I'm not interested in that level of originality so would happily give that to you as well. Really admire the project you're doing. Anyway if you do want them just send me a PM with your address details.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration 60th Birthday
Paulc wrote:Seems our cars share the same birthday. I must have had ANK for 25+ years. 60 today.
Any excuse for some cake!
Edosan wrote:Yes I gave up trying to fit the ring back on and just use a cable tie instead, so I have a spare ring if you want me to pop one in the post for you. Also when I rummaged in my box of brake bits I found an original Lockheed boot which is not perished, it's used and just needs a clean up.(remnants of Waxoyl ) I don't want it as I'm not interested in that level of originality so would happily give that to you as well. Really admire the project you're doing. Anyway if you do want them just send me a PM with your address details.
Kindly donated and fitted with repainted ring
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration 60th Birthday
AustinofEngland wrote:Any excuse for some cake!
Club Technical Information Officer
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Great to see it arrived Ok and is already fitted. All Best Ed
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration 60th Birthday
PCJ was the 10th May 1957, i wonder how close they are off the trackPaulc wrote:Seems our cars share the same birthday. I must have had ANK for 25+ years. 60 today.
Nick Bayliss
Club's A35 (Saloon) Registrar, South Midlands Area Contact
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Club's A35 (Saloon) Registrar, South Midlands Area Contact
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Connected with A30/A35's for 63 years
A30/A35 Member A1372 (since 1981)
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Fuel pump removed and cleaned externally.
The gauze filter removed, notice the two washers fitted to the bolt and evidence of RTV sealant from previous "repairs". The rubber seal is rock hard and sediment found under the gauze.
Five main body screws and washers removed to reveal the main diaphragm. The top body shows the two internal in and out valves.
Diaphragm and pushrod twists 90 degrees to disengage it from the lift arm. The small black rubber seal at the base of spring was split allowing some engine oil to splash in on the underside of the diaphragm.
NOS overhaul kit from the Club
New seal with diaphragm, valves with the number 8 shaped gasket fitted.
Main body assembled and the top to go on. One new fibre washer fitted to the stainless fixing bolt.
Finished pump, a "light pressure whoopee cushion fart" noise could be heard on each up and down stroke of the arm, with a very positive action which it certainly didn't do before. Ready for the onslaught of ethanol!
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
I believe the question was asked some time ago about fitting a modified first motion shaft lip seal conversion to the gearbox. I believe there are differences between smooth and ribbed case gearboxes for this part and for Left Hand Drive cars to be aware of. This car has its fair share of oil leaks and inside the clutch bell housing was the expected mass of sticky oily clutch dust and iron fillings mix from the ring gear.
No other known problems with this gearbox so just a good clean up required
Removing the plate is straight forward
Comparison of the two plates, lip seal versus cast scroll. Don't forget to recover the shims from behind and refit them
No fitting tips or instructions provided, but from experience I recommend insulation tape round the clutch splines and roughly machined parts of the first motion shaft, then grease the lip seal and shaft- it's quite tight over the whole thing. New gasket is provided and don't forget the spacer shims.
Clutch arm and carbon release bearing fitted, after reading many horror stories about modern reproductions of these bearings I've measured the original from the dimensions in the workshop manual and it still has plenty of wear left.
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
It's been a while since I've updated here but working many early mornings and late nights concentrating on UOL in a failed attempt to get it ready for the National Meet (2017!), this left no time to update this thread. In the end it was downgraded to running and driving, and now downgraded further to a rolling car at best! Anyway I did at least continue to take snapshots of the work done during the last three or so weeks....
The engine has been left in this state for some time, with head removed and sent of for unleaded work some time ago covered earlier in this thread. This is the first time it's been apart since 1957, so provided excellent reference points to how the factory originally finished it off.
On the strip down the original simplex chain
Chain and gears removed the crankshaft sprocket alignment shims visible
Pistons and rods out, main bearing caps removed, all looks in good order
Close up of the rear main scroll to artistically persuad the oil back into the engine
Main bearing
The worst of the big ends
Pistons and con rods
Sludge minimal in the sump given the first look inside for 60 years!
The engine has been left in this state for some time, with head removed and sent of for unleaded work some time ago covered earlier in this thread. This is the first time it's been apart since 1957, so provided excellent reference points to how the factory originally finished it off.
On the strip down the original simplex chain
Chain and gears removed the crankshaft sprocket alignment shims visible
Pistons and rods out, main bearing caps removed, all looks in good order
Close up of the rear main scroll to artistically persuad the oil back into the engine
Main bearing
The worst of the big ends
Pistons and con rods
Sludge minimal in the sump given the first look inside for 60 years!
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Some of the parts cleaned up
The block stripped right down and cleaned up with bores deglazed. With the water drain tap removed loads of brown crud washed out of the block with a pressure washer directed through the water pump apature, front head stud holes and water drain tap hole.
I noticed a block serial number stamped next to the water pump apature...
...which matched serial numbers stamped on all three main bearing caps. Because the caps are "line bored" along with the block they are a unique matched set and the factory must have done this to prevent any possibility of a mix up and keep quality at 100%.
Inside the block cleaned of brown sludge with new standard size main bearings in place
Pistons cleaned up, new rings and a nice surprise that original big bearings are still available off the shelf in standard size! Part number 8G2198
Pistons going in
Bottom end complete with oil strainer
Sump back on, amongst the cork seals I did a bit of modern RTV sealant in an attempt to stop oil leaks
I was persuaded with advice from here to upgrade to a duplex chain for quieter running and in order to do this the front engine plate needs modification to the lower fixing bolts to clear the new duplex gear.
To fit counter sunk fixings provided in the kit
Duplex kit installed. My advice here is that when checking the alignment of the sprockets it was found they were quite significantly out of alignment, always order extra spacer shims to avoid the frustration of not being able to set this up without delays!
I fitted a new felt seal which was quite tricky to do. I've worked on many A Series engines but nothing earlier than 1973 stuff, so have not seen (amongst other things) the felt seal set up for the crank pulley. I read on here that the 948 engine had the lip seal and was a change point between 803 to 948 engines, l now know this to be incorrect and the change happened during 948 production and throughout 1098 and 848 engines. Due to lack of time it's gone back together with original set up rather than tracking down a later chain cover assembly.
Back together with original reconditioned water pump and cam followers fitted.
Fitting the distributor drive with a long 5/16 unf bolt screwed in to handle it. This is the correct position for it with number one cylinder at TDC, however this is different from the position described and illustrated in the BMC manual, the illustration in the manual shows the position for the drive shaft as inserting it into the block before it rotates as it meshes with the gear on the camshaft. Looks like an error in the manual unless it's different on the 803 engine and it has not been updated for the later engines?
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Sun Aug 27, 2017 10:43 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Distributor clamp, oil filter, pressure relief valve, oil switch and cylinder head studs refitted
Original cylinder head now reworked for unleaded fuel
BMC head set with something else I've never seen before, alloy rocker shaft pedestals
MOWOG head gasket
Rocker shaft on with original thermostat and housing, silicone bypass hose, tappet chest covers and rebuilt fuel pump. Notice the original BMC manifold gasket follows the shape of the cylinder head casting, this is exactly as the factory fit one removed. The replacement ones available are straight sided, but have been that shape for decades now with no adverse effects but could be carefully trimmed down.
Manifold with remains of green paint
Inlet separated from exhaust manifold and the hot spot is really carboned up on the carburettor side!
Everything cleaned up and starting to go back together
Inside the inlet manifold make sure the small fuel drain drilling is clear
Manifolds back on, I would say a good tip to make sure of no air leaks with good alignment is to gradually tighten the main 6 brass manifold nuts and 4 inlet to exhaust manifold bolts a bit at a time and not one lot fully tightened and then the other. The carburettor studs, nuts and oil filler cap have be stripped down and zinc replated earlier. Finally the fuel drain union and tube cleared and refitted. Eagle eyed will notice the incorrectly fitted manifold to head studs which has been corrected.
Flywheel, clutch and gearbox fitted final engine dressing underway. Champion plugs, original distributor and cap but with replacement leads from the 1980s, the vacuum advance diaphragm and clamp have been repainted in cad silver. Setting the timing position for 5 degrees BTDC and then using a multimeter to determine when the points opened as an initial setting. Repaired earth lead fitted but noticed that some chafing had started on the starter motor main cable.
Rebuilt carburettor fitted along with fabricated steel fuel pipe with original brass unions.
Original dynamo fitted after a partial strip down to clean brushes, armature and lube the bearings. Cleaned up the alloy contact side, painted the two long clamp screws, removed the rust from the fan and pully. Over to the BMC patented safety first engine test bed and crank it over with a multimeter on the oil pressure switch which eventually indicated oil pressure. Then time to try out that £3 1958 coil from eBay. Enough fuel pumped through to fill the carburettor, a couple bits of wire for the coil, choke closed with one hand and other hand to short the starter cable on the battery and vroom first time!
Back the starter cable I removed the soldered original terminals
Found some original looking cotton braided cable and re soldered them on. The vacuum pipe has been cleaned and painted cad silver around the area close to the vapour trap bulb. Engine now complete and ready for the best bit, painting....
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Thu Aug 24, 2017 11:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Autosparks will re-braid the original cable if you remove the old braiding and clean it meticulously before sending it to them...AustinofEngland wrote:Found some original looking cotton braided cable and re soldered them on.
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A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
That fuel pipe from pump to carb has always been painted green on cars that I have owned,but you probably know that.
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Before the engine goes back in you might want to loosen the primer plug as it isn't in the easiest position once the engine is in. I had a lot of trouble priming the oil pump and resorted to priming the pump from both the primer and the oil switch and eventually the pump 'worked', when it did it pumped oil all over the clean engine bay.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Packing the pump with vaseline helps...Paulc wrote: I had a lot of trouble priming the oil pump...
Club Technical Information Officer
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child
A30/A35 Club Member A191 (since 1972)
Father of the club's only love child