UOL 524 1957 A35 Restoration
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Now turning some attention to the fuel system.
I've managed to take this photo of the fuel tank filter which looks very bunged up and probably contributed to some of the running problems it had in the brief spell it was on the road. Is there any way of cleaning this up or is the consensus just to remove it? If so what is the best way to butcher it out? The tank has been blasted and stove enamelled, no holes after and is looking good on the outside. The inside could do with a clean out before assembly..
I've managed to take this photo of the fuel tank filter which looks very bunged up and probably contributed to some of the running problems it had in the brief spell it was on the road. Is there any way of cleaning this up or is the consensus just to remove it? If so what is the best way to butcher it out? The tank has been blasted and stove enamelled, no holes after and is looking good on the outside. The inside could do with a clean out before assembly..
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
AUSTIN - you can depend on it!
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
I have sent the carburettor off to a specialist for overhaul.
Here it is before removing it from the engine
It's come back looking pretty enough
Sporting its 1957 date mark. The main reason for sending it away was to save time, but if you want a job doing etc! It has some very obvious faults that have not been addressed, so I'll have to get stuck in and sort them out myself! I'll post more about this later....
Here it is before removing it from the engine
It's come back looking pretty enough
Sporting its 1957 date mark. The main reason for sending it away was to save time, but if you want a job doing etc! It has some very obvious faults that have not been addressed, so I'll have to get stuck in and sort them out myself! I'll post more about this later....
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:01 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
So that's the end INSIDE the tank? I think Neil suggests poking through with brazing rod .. brass so no sparks.AustinofEngland wrote:I've managed to take this photo of the fuel tank filter which looks very bunged up and probably contributed to some of the running problems it had in the brief spell it was on the road. Is there any way of cleaning this up or is the consensus just to remove it? If so what is the best way to butcher it out? The tank has been blasted and stove enamelled, no holes after and is looking good on the outside. The inside could do with a clean out before assembly..
"If you're driving on the edge ... you're leaving too much room!"
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Yes, photo taken through the sender unit aperture... Sometimes you can get at the gauze filter through the drain bung. If not, poke up through the fuel outlet... I've found the best place to fit an inline filter is in the raised floor area under the driver's seat.gazza82 wrote:
So that's the end INSIDE the tank? I think Neil suggests poking through with brazing rod .. brass so no sparks.
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Father of the club's only love child
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
never knew they were dated, you learn something new......AustinofEngland wrote:I have sent the carburettor off to a specialist for overhaul.
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Sporting its 1957 date mark. The main reason for sending it away was to save time, but if you want a job doing etc! It has some very obvious faults that have not been addressed, so I'll have to get stuck in and sort them out myself! I'll post more about this later....
Nick Bayliss
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Tell you what,they run a lot better with an su carb.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Haven't managed to get my sender out yet ... usual screw problem .. they won't un ....Neil Evans wrote:Yes, photo taken through the sender unit aperture... Sometimes you can get at the gauze filter through the drain bung. If not, poke up through the fuel outlet... I've found the best place to fit an inline filter is in the raised floor area under the driver's seat.gazza82 wrote:
So that's the end INSIDE the tank? I think Neil suggests poking through with brazing rod .. brass so no sparks.
"If you're driving on the edge ... you're leaving too much room!"
Club WebEditor.
Cars: "Project 757" '59 A35 2-door bought in 1971 & Subaru BRZ SE LUX Auto plus "family fleet": Alfa MiTo, Peugeot 206, (Ex '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TS)
Club WebEditor.
Cars: "Project 757" '59 A35 2-door bought in 1971 & Subaru BRZ SE LUX Auto plus "family fleet": Alfa MiTo, Peugeot 206, (Ex '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TS)
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
if that's the case, they must run much better with two su's...SteveClem wrote:Tell you what,they run a lot better with an su carb.
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
I removed one of those filters on a friends tank recently, was surprised how easily it all came off, basically just attacked it with a hammer and big long screwdriver from the sender hole and it all fell off with little force, Just seemed to be weakly brazed in place. No worry about sparks as tank had been off for awhile and filled and rinsed with water etc so quite safe.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
If balanced correctly ... and stay in balance!Duncan wrote:if that's the case, they must run much better with two su's...SteveClem wrote:Tell you what,they run a lot better with an su carb.
"If you're driving on the edge ... you're leaving too much room!"
Club WebEditor.
Cars: "Project 757" '59 A35 2-door bought in 1971 & Subaru BRZ SE LUX Auto plus "family fleet": Alfa MiTo, Peugeot 206, (Ex '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TS)
Club WebEditor.
Cars: "Project 757" '59 A35 2-door bought in 1971 & Subaru BRZ SE LUX Auto plus "family fleet": Alfa MiTo, Peugeot 206, (Ex '98 Alfa Romeo 156 2.0 TS)
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
One su is fine. I just like local pottering around but without embarrassment...
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Neil Evans wrote:Yes, photo taken through the sender unit aperture... Sometimes you can get at the gauze filter through the drain bung. If not, poke up through the fuel outlet... I've found the best place to fit an inline filter is in the raised floor area under the driver's seat.gazza82 wrote:
So that's the end INSIDE the tank? I think Neil suggests poking through with brazing rod .. brass so no sparks.
Thanks for the advice about this, I've had a look at it and worked through the sender unit aperture.Edosan wrote:I removed one of those filters on a friends tank recently, was surprised how easily it all came off, basically just attacked it with a hammer and big long screwdriver from the sender hole and it all fell off with little force, Just seemed to be weakly brazed in place. No worry about sparks as tank had been off for awhile and filled and rinsed with water etc so quite safe.
With a suitable shaped implement I've managed to gently bend up the fuel pipe in the tank about 3/4", this allowed the whole filter assembly to be removed from the pipe which out of interest it has the end cut at a 45 degree angle.
The filter remained intact so I tried to clean it up and see if it was salvageable.
Which it did! It's cleaned up a treat and seems to be a copper mesh filter with brass ends all soldered together. This one did not appear to be attached to the bottom of the tank (but that attachment could have failed over the years) but may rely on the pipe pressing it down on the base of the tank.
Inside it has a spring to keep it in shape. I'll be attempting to clean out the inside of the tank first before I see if it will refit.
Well I assume it is otherwise it would be a strange coincidence!A40FARINAGURU wrote:never knew they were dated, you learn something new......AustinofEngland wrote:I have sent the carburettor off to a specialist for overhaul.
Sporting its 1957 date mark. The main reason for sending it away was to save time, but if you want a job doing etc! It has some very obvious faults that have not been addressed, so I'll have to get stuck in and sort them out myself! I'll post more about this later....
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:05 am, edited 2 times in total.
AUSTIN - you can depend on it!
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Zenith as returned from the so called specialist...
Had a look up close at the carburettor, found that it has suffered the usual body distortion.
Measuring the gap between the bottom of the float body to the main body on the emulsion tube side there is a 13 thou gap!
Measuring the the gap between the body and the float chamber there is a 6 thou gap! This means we can establish that it would have leaked fuel and ran like a three legged dog before going anywhere near the engine.
Picking up some tips from the forums the distortion looked quite minor compared with some I've seen, so I've decided to try and correct it by dressing down the float chamber top face to adjust out the distortion.
Stripped out all the jets etc to a bare casting.
I found highlighting the machined face with a marker pen would give a good guide as where the material was removed.
After some trial and error offering the chamber up to the body and measuring with a feeler gauge the gaps started to close up.
An initial trial with both gaskets fitted looked good but on one side there was still a 1 thou or so gap towards the top edge.
This was a combination of dressing the actual main body which had a high spot at the bottom and
years of undoing/tightening the two float chamber bolts. This had crushed the top edge of the body causing a small ring to foul the bolts, with this filled out it allowed movement closer to the main body and the gap closed up.
It's worth noting that with the amount of material removed from the top side of the float chamber that the emulsion tube gasket does not sit flush and may need to be trimmed down, but in this case it was an advantage because the float chamber top gasket did not but up to the edge of the right angle of the main body. When assembled it formed a perfect overlap with the other gasket...
The final thing I've noticed is that the two main jet access bungs have had fibre washers fitted that are too large. One has been cut down so they fit together, but it looks too close for comfort and just asking to leak fuel. Did they have fibre washers fitted originally or are they aluminium / copper ones?
After fully reassembling the float chamber and bolting it all back together and finally no gaps anymore, patting myself on the back I found this in the cardboard box for storing the carburettor....
Had a look up close at the carburettor, found that it has suffered the usual body distortion.
Measuring the gap between the bottom of the float body to the main body on the emulsion tube side there is a 13 thou gap!
Measuring the the gap between the body and the float chamber there is a 6 thou gap! This means we can establish that it would have leaked fuel and ran like a three legged dog before going anywhere near the engine.
Picking up some tips from the forums the distortion looked quite minor compared with some I've seen, so I've decided to try and correct it by dressing down the float chamber top face to adjust out the distortion.
Stripped out all the jets etc to a bare casting.
I found highlighting the machined face with a marker pen would give a good guide as where the material was removed.
After some trial and error offering the chamber up to the body and measuring with a feeler gauge the gaps started to close up.
An initial trial with both gaskets fitted looked good but on one side there was still a 1 thou or so gap towards the top edge.
This was a combination of dressing the actual main body which had a high spot at the bottom and
years of undoing/tightening the two float chamber bolts. This had crushed the top edge of the body causing a small ring to foul the bolts, with this filled out it allowed movement closer to the main body and the gap closed up.
It's worth noting that with the amount of material removed from the top side of the float chamber that the emulsion tube gasket does not sit flush and may need to be trimmed down, but in this case it was an advantage because the float chamber top gasket did not but up to the edge of the right angle of the main body. When assembled it formed a perfect overlap with the other gasket...
The final thing I've noticed is that the two main jet access bungs have had fibre washers fitted that are too large. One has been cut down so they fit together, but it looks too close for comfort and just asking to leak fuel. Did they have fibre washers fitted originally or are they aluminium / copper ones?
After fully reassembling the float chamber and bolting it all back together and finally no gaps anymore, patting myself on the back I found this in the cardboard box for storing the carburettor....
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
A real odd one here I noticed that the bonnet secondary safety catch has lost is springiness for some reason...
The spring has gone all sloppy and could be quite dangerous if the bonnet became unlatched
Should you need one it is still available as a separate part under the original Austin part number 4B8646 from the likes of Rimmer Bros and Brown & Gammons etc....
The spring has gone all sloppy and could be quite dangerous if the bonnet became unlatched
Should you need one it is still available as a separate part under the original Austin part number 4B8646 from the likes of Rimmer Bros and Brown & Gammons etc....
Last edited by AustinofEngland on Mon Sep 04, 2017 7:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
AUSTIN - you can depend on it!
Re: UOL 1957 A35 Restoration
Try as I may I never got a Zenith to run correctly. There was always a very slight hesitation on pick up. I spent £200 on a refurbish at Gower and Lee and the thing leaked and still never ran right. If you stood the car for any time it took 30 seconds of cranking to get it started. Evaporation was a big issue. I agree with the comments that they run much better on an SU. Anyone want a refurbished Zenith that is a s good as they ever get?