cylinder heads

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Dave Clark
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Dave Clark »

It can, but the head would then need to be clamped on to deep parallels on the mill bed.

I would always remove the valves and then it needs only to be clamped directly to the bed -- much more rigid, which is important

What is your reason for not wanting to remove the valves ?
Alan
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

so I started to look at the head today. firstly measured the thickness.

Image

removed all the valves

Image

any ideas on moving this to fit a new bypass piece?

Image

so my intentions are to get it skimmed 0.060 and have new valves fitted. upon removing the old valves, I noticed they were very 'sloppy' in the guides, quite a bit of play in fact. after a call to mark, this wasn't right.

so I have tried to remove these, but they aren't going to budge. I guess the machine shop will do this?

any ideas?
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by A40FARINAGURU »

Nick Bayliss

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Alan
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

I know that nick, whats the best way to get this out?
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by A40FARINAGURU »

Alan wrote:I know that nick, whats the best way to get this out?
a sharp narrow chisel tapping it round or try breaking it inwards with sharp chisel
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by gazza82 »

Have fun with the bypass. I had more than that left and even after drilling it out to make it thinner it still took a while to break and fold in on itself.

The valve guides need drifting out. Manuals probably show tools to do that but they also need to be pressed back in and to a specific height. Can't remember if they need to be reamed to new valves stems.
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

bypass tube is out. glad I don't have to do that again for a while. thread maybe a little 'scarred'. new bypass tube should go in with some lubricant. i'll thread seal it once I have the head back from the engineering shop.
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Dave Clark
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Dave Clark »

Too late now perhaps, but I would blank off that bypass hole - and the stub on the water pump because it is quite unnecessary, as witness all the later A series without it.

As far as valve gudes are concerned I would hand the head to a trusted machine shop top fit new guides and then cut new three angle valve seats to match themn.

That way you get good seats, decent flow round the valves and the assurance that the valves will now sit EXACTLY above the new seats.They probably won,t if you just bash in some new valve guides and try hnd lapping the new valves. Believe me it will be worth it.

Now that we have got you started on modifications, I have some spare turbos ?
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

not too late dave. I haven't fitted a bypass tube yet.

I was thinking of giving it to the machinist for them to vit new guides. I have bought new valves and guides already for this head. i'll hand the lot over and get them to do it. no rush as the car is still running. this is for further down the line along with some other modifications I have in mind.

does the turbo bolt straight on? I think that would kill my 803 box :rol:
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by gazza82 »

The bypass thread is an odd one but you can get a blanking plug if you hunt for then ... they aren't easy to find though.
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Dave Clark
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Dave Clark »

Alan, the turbo will bolt straight on .... to all the other bits that have to go on first.

The turbo won,t kill the gearbox but your right foot might.
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Hurtzberg »

Dave, if you're giving away turbos, Betsy certainly needs one.
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

would anyone know the thread size for the bypass tube? I've been told it might be 9/16 BSP. looks to be the same thread size as the temp sensor hole thread.

can anyone confirm?
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by gazza82 »

I'm sure it isn't the same and it's an odd thread size. I think it might be listed on a post of TheMiniForum but I'd have to look. I found a blanking screw 88G619 ... But really had to search for it and it was their last one.

From TMF: it's a UNS thread:
The thread is actually 5/8 x 16 TPI, same as the crankshaft. the 5/8 UNF Plug that is often used is 18 TPI. That's all I've used, there was a factory plug available for a short while but NLA these days.
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Re: cylinder heads

Post by Alan »

could these be used on the valves. people talk of them as better than the other small round rubbers.

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